In a fish pond with a waterfall, the pond pump flow rate refers to the amount of water required to give you the desired water fall effect. You will need to know the correct pond pump flow rate and the desired pump head for your application.
If you use a pump that is under powered then your waterfall will simply not look like a waterfall but more like a dripping tap. On the other hand too much water will create quite a noise and cost you more in electricity costs.
Always choose ribbed hose as it does not kink and allows water to flow around bends and curves. The aim is to reduce the flow restriction to the minimal possible.
When you are looking at pumps you will normally see the maximum pump flow rating, printed on the outside of the box. This to all intent and purpose is not practical as this figure describes the particular pond pump’s ability when it does not have any pond hose connected to it.
A decent pond pump will always show the volume that can be pumped at different head heights.
What Is Pond Pump Flow Rate?
A pond pump flow rate is the amount of pond water that can be pumped through your pond system to get the waterfall effect you're looking for. The pond pump flow rate must also take into consideration your pond filter system. If you have a fish pond, without a waterfall then a good flow rate for your pump would be about half the fish pond total volume every hour.
If you are running a waterfall in your garden pond, you'll need to determine the pump head before selecting a pump. As a quick summary, pond pump head is the height (measured from the SURFACE of the water) to the inlet of the waterfall. In other words, this is the height to which the water must be lifted in order to operate the waterfall.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-pumpflowrate.htm ...
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April 30, 2009
Select The Right Pond Pump Or Pond Waterfall Pump
The aim of this page is to help any pond keeper looking for a pond pump or pond waterfall pump to make the right choice. When you choosing a pond pump for your fish pond or water garden you need to be specific. Making the right choice can become a little bit more complicated if you have a waterfall incorporated into your pond design.
You need to know 2 important criteria if you incorporate a waterfall as part of your fish pond and are looking for a waterfall pump
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You need to know 2 important criteria if you incorporate a waterfall as part of your fish pond and are looking for a waterfall pump
- The distance between the surface of your fish pond and the inlet of the waterfall i.e. the vertical height above the pond surface in feet.
- The actual width of the lip of the waterfall i.e. where water flows over. If your waterfall is a cascading waterfall with a series of waterfalls falling onto each other then you will need to measure the width of each and add them together in inches (1 inch = 2.54cm).
Important Points When Selecting The Right Garden Pond Pump
- The running cost is far more important to consider than the purchase cost.
- Calculate correct pond pump head.
- Calculate correct pond pump flow rate.
- If you are looking for a backyard water feature pump decide more specifically upon your water feature before deciding upon the garden water feature pumps to select from.
- Learn to be aware of some of the dubious retailers out there who will try to sell you the wrong equipment simply to make a few $$$. Under no circumstances should you use a sump pump as a waterfall pump.
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April 29, 2009
Sump Pumps Are A Bad Waterfall Pump Choice
You will often see unscrupulous retailers advertising sump pumps for use as a waterfall pump. They are more interested in their profit margin than you as the customer.
Sump pumps, are designed specifically to remove water from basements, wells, cellars and even to empty fish ponds of water. They are however not designed for continuous operation and tend to overheat. They are extremely noisy and expensive to run as they consume a lot of electricity.
They are able to shoot water up to quite a high height, often 10 feet high. This coupled with the low purchased price is a reason why many retailers will advertise a sump pump for use as a pond waterfall pump.
As stated above, a typical basement pump has been engineered to run in intermittent bursts and will typically last about 10,000 hours (1 year). After about 1 year the water seal will fail, allowing water to enter the pump, causing the pump to fail.
Do you really want to risk electrocuting your Koi and other pond fish or starving the nitrifying bacteria of much needed oxygen?
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Sump pumps, are designed specifically to remove water from basements, wells, cellars and even to empty fish ponds of water. They are however not designed for continuous operation and tend to overheat. They are extremely noisy and expensive to run as they consume a lot of electricity.
They are able to shoot water up to quite a high height, often 10 feet high. This coupled with the low purchased price is a reason why many retailers will advertise a sump pump for use as a pond waterfall pump.
As stated above, a typical basement pump has been engineered to run in intermittent bursts and will typically last about 10,000 hours (1 year). After about 1 year the water seal will fail, allowing water to enter the pump, causing the pump to fail.
Do you really want to risk electrocuting your Koi and other pond fish or starving the nitrifying bacteria of much needed oxygen?
- A typical sump pump will have an upright design and may even come with a handle at the top of the pump for carrying it around.
- The inlet pipe will often be at the base of the pump, making it ideal for emptying cellars and basements.
- Take a look at the power consumption. Sump pumps typically have wattage of 250 watts or more.
- A sump pump is usually cheaper to buy than many submersible pond pump models.
A more economical selection of waterfall pond pump is a reliable, energy efficient model, specifically designed to provide high head heights. There are plenty of models to choose from.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-sumpbadwaterfallpump.html ...Learn how to choose the right pond keeping equipment online, to save money, Guaranteed! Go to http://www.garden-pond-filters.com to learn everything you need to know NOW!
April 28, 2009
Pond Pumps Must Run 24/7
Never switch off your fish pond pump for more than a few minutes, whether that be a large Koi pond external pump or a smaller submersible pump system if you want to keep your Koi and goldfish alive.
The primary purpose is to supply oxygenated pond water to the Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria living on the pond filter media. These bacteria are responsible for breaking down toxic ammonia into nitrites and then into nitrates , in what is known as the Nitrogen Cycle.
The primary purpose is to supply oxygenated pond water to the Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria living on the pond filter media. These bacteria are responsible for breaking down toxic ammonia into nitrites and then into nitrates , in what is known as the Nitrogen Cycle.
- At the interface between water and atmospheric air, oxygen is absorbed into the water. The amount of oxygen absorbed believe it or not is affected by the temperature of the water; warmer water does not absorb oxygen as easily as cold water.
- Cold pond water can also hold more oxygen than warm water and when there is turbulence at the interface, oxygen is more readily absorbed; windy days for example make it easier for your pond to absorb oxygen from the atmosphere.
- At night there is less oxygen in the pond than there is during the day; this is to a large extent caused by the behavior of aquatic pond plants, which absorb carbon dioxide, to produce oxygen during the day. At night however the opposite is true and they use up oxygen and produce carbon dioxide.
- A waterfall and a fountain are extremely useful in a pond because they increase that interface between water and air (small droplets have large area) which allows for more air to be absorbed.
The vast majority of people realize that oxygen is needed by pond fish to breathe but what they do not realize is that it is critically important to the breakdown of ammonia by the nitrifying bacteria, living on the pond filter media.
The nitrifying bacteria in addition need a constant supply of oxygen. If they do not receive oxygen they will be totally wiped out after about 6 hours. For this reason it is essential that your pond water pump runs continuously 24/7 ...
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-pump247.html/ ...
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Choose The Right Waterfall Pump To Save Money
Backyard Pond Waterfalls need large volumes of pond water to be pumped to them. Unless you make a smart choice you can end up with high energy bills.
A good waterfall pump will run 24/7 without incurring high energy consumption ... beware however that a bad choice will end up costing you an arm and a leg to operate.
You will need to understand and determine the waterfall pump head, as described in other articles on this site. Thankfully many modern water fall pumps do not contain sponges, previously used to trap debris from entering the internal workings of the pump. This means that you can achieve higher water flow rates without as much pump flow restriction.
When deciding which waterfall pump to choose you will need to be aware of the following:
A good waterfall pump will run 24/7 without incurring high energy consumption ... beware however that a bad choice will end up costing you an arm and a leg to operate.
You will need to understand and determine the waterfall pump head, as described in other articles on this site. Thankfully many modern water fall pumps do not contain sponges, previously used to trap debris from entering the internal workings of the pump. This means that you can achieve higher water flow rates without as much pump flow restriction.
When deciding which waterfall pump to choose you will need to be aware of the following:
- Calculate the width and height of the waterfall.
- For every inch of waterfall lip width, you need to allow for 50 gallons of pond water flow over that lip. If your waterfall has more than one lip, then you need to combine the lip widths together to get a total.
Another good idea is to use two pumps in your backyard pond; one to supply oxygenated water to the biological pond filter and another one to power water to the top of the waterfall or water feature.
By utilizing a separate waterfall pump and pond biofilter pump you will save a considerable amount of electricity costs over the length of a year. Another advantage is that you have also got a spare pond pump in case of an emergency ...
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-waterfallstreamavoidsump.html ...
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April 27, 2009
Spring Time In Your Water Garden Pond
Spring is the time of year in the water gardening calendar that many pond keepers start to experience pond hassles and problems. The warmer pond temperatures encourage bacterial fish disease problems such as ulcers.
Now is the time to change the UV lamp, prior to placing the UV back into your garden fish pond. UV lamps typically last about 8000 hours; less than a year. Failure to replace the lamp will seriously affect the UV clarifiers ability to destroy green pond algae as it will not emit enough UV light.
The increase of green pond water is a direct result of increased natural sunlight, increased fish feeding and the resulting rise in the levels of nutrients in the fish pond.
Spring Pond Care Tips And Advice
Pond plants are starting to bloom and develop new growth. Now is the time to divide your hardy water lilies and other pond plants. You can also add an aquatic plant growth food into each new basket.
If you had previously installed pond lighting products last season, you can safely put them back into the fish pond.
Check the water quality. Many serious fish keepers will do a partial water change of up to one third in order to dilute any build up of salts and chemicals they may have been adding.
As the water temperature gets nearer to 10 Celsius you can start feed the Koi and other pond fish with a quality pond fish food.
If you have a garden and are contemplating using pesticides or chemical fertilizers then please be careful not to allow any run off get into your garden fish pond. Pesticides are not only poisonous to your Koi, goldfish and other aquatic life but are detrimental to the nitrifying bacteria.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-springcoming.html ...
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Now is the time to change the UV lamp, prior to placing the UV back into your garden fish pond. UV lamps typically last about 8000 hours; less than a year. Failure to replace the lamp will seriously affect the UV clarifiers ability to destroy green pond algae as it will not emit enough UV light.
The increase of green pond water is a direct result of increased natural sunlight, increased fish feeding and the resulting rise in the levels of nutrients in the fish pond.
Spring Pond Care Tips And Advice
Pond plants are starting to bloom and develop new growth. Now is the time to divide your hardy water lilies and other pond plants. You can also add an aquatic plant growth food into each new basket.
If you had previously installed pond lighting products last season, you can safely put them back into the fish pond.
Check the water quality. Many serious fish keepers will do a partial water change of up to one third in order to dilute any build up of salts and chemicals they may have been adding.
As the water temperature gets nearer to 10 Celsius you can start feed the Koi and other pond fish with a quality pond fish food.
If you have a garden and are contemplating using pesticides or chemical fertilizers then please be careful not to allow any run off get into your garden fish pond. Pesticides are not only poisonous to your Koi, goldfish and other aquatic life but are detrimental to the nitrifying bacteria.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-springcoming.html ...
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Spring Time Activity In Your Fish Pond
Spring is the time of year that toads migrate in startling numbers to the place they developed as tadpoles to miniature toads.
Females are always in short supply, so the adult males will attempt to mate with anything that moves including docile fish or another pair of mating toads.
Although the water in your fish pond has stayed pretty much below 10 Celsius you may be under the illusion that nothing is going on. In fact it has been warm enough for the blanket weed or Spirogyra to take advantage of the early increased sunlight and increased nutrients in the pond water.
The Marsh Marigold, Caltha palustris is resolutely pushing its way up. Whether it is a rock hard frozen bog area or sitting with its neck through an inch of ice in the margins, it is determined it going to get out and about before the rest of the mayhem starts in the water garden. In fact its new growth for the following season starts in October when everything else is dying down, and despite the trials of winter, its little fleshy stems still manage to produce a golden display right at the beginning of spring at the end of March.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-springpetermay.html ...
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Females are always in short supply, so the adult males will attempt to mate with anything that moves including docile fish or another pair of mating toads.
Although the water in your fish pond has stayed pretty much below 10 Celsius you may be under the illusion that nothing is going on. In fact it has been warm enough for the blanket weed or Spirogyra to take advantage of the early increased sunlight and increased nutrients in the pond water.
The Marsh Marigold, Caltha palustris is resolutely pushing its way up. Whether it is a rock hard frozen bog area or sitting with its neck through an inch of ice in the margins, it is determined it going to get out and about before the rest of the mayhem starts in the water garden. In fact its new growth for the following season starts in October when everything else is dying down, and despite the trials of winter, its little fleshy stems still manage to produce a golden display right at the beginning of spring at the end of March.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-springpetermay.html ...
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How To Clean Your Garden Fish Pond In The Fall
Please note that this article has been written with the average garden pond keeper in mind and not the professional Koi pond owners.
In a small to medium sized fish pond which does not have the advantage of a bottom drain there will be a gradual build up of organic matter and solid fish waste over a period of time. The problem with organic matter and solid fish waste is that is starts to decompose. As you can see it is important to keep the bottom of your water garden fish pond as clean as you possibly can.
Fall or Autumn is the preferred time of year to carry out routine pond cleaning.
In a small to medium sized fish pond which does not have the advantage of a bottom drain there will be a gradual build up of organic matter and solid fish waste over a period of time. The problem with organic matter and solid fish waste is that is starts to decompose. As you can see it is important to keep the bottom of your water garden fish pond as clean as you possibly can.
Fall or Autumn is the preferred time of year to carry out routine pond cleaning.
- You will need to get your hands on a container that is capable of holding about 100 gallons (US) or bigger if possible. Ideally a container capable of holding half of your pond volume is ideal.
- The next step involves connecting a piece of tubing to a pond pump and pumping out the pond water into the container. Do not suck up pond water from near the bottom of the pond; instead place the end of the tube just below the water surface. Keep as much of the 'old' pond water as you can.
- Time for the fun job of catching your pond fish and placing them into the retained pond water in the container.
- Use a net to remove any leaves and get rid of them, along with any other muck that you can get out also. If you prefer, instead of a partial pond clean you can carry out a full pond clean. To do this pump out the rest of the pond water and then use a pond vacuum cleaner (pond vac) to suck up any remaining sludge.
- Start to fill your fish pond back up to the level it was at before you removed the pond water; add a chlorine remover and adjust the pond pH to match that in the holding tankYou can now start to pump new water from the pond into your holding tub, and then pumping the mixture back into the pond. Do this for 15-20 minutes until the new water mixture matches that in the pond. Pump the remaining water back into your pond while netting your fish back in as well.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-fallcleaning.html ...
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April 26, 2009
How To Care For And Avoid Koi Hassles And Problems
The articles on this page have been written to provide pond keepers and Koi keepers with answers and solutions to some of the common problems and hassles that they may face from time to time.
If you have sick or ill Koi or gold fish you may want to read the article on common answers and solutions to pond fish health problems and pond fish disease problems. Koi And Pond Fish Related Articles ...
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If you have sick or ill Koi or gold fish you may want to read the article on common answers and solutions to pond fish health problems and pond fish disease problems. Koi And Pond Fish Related Articles ...
- Creating The Best Koi Pond Environment ... Koi, like humans need their own own environment and know exactly what they need from that environment to lead a fulfilled, happy, healthy existence.
- How Do I Answers To Pond Fish Health Problems ... Although it is impossible to guarantee that your koi, goldfish etc won’t become ill or diseased there are certain things you can carry out to minimize the opportunity for bacterial and parasitic infestations to take hold.
- How Much Fish Food To Feed To Koi And Goldfish ... The amount of food eaten by your pond fish will depend upon the species and the water temperature.
- Koi Air Pumps & Japanese Matting Improve Koi Ponds ... This article is really aimed at Koi keepers rather than casual pond keepers.
- Protect Baby Fish From Larger Koi & Pond Fish ... It's a cruel world out there and your garden pond is no different, particularly for the fry of goldfish and Koi.
- Prepare Your Koi & Pond Fish When Moving House ... Moving house is a pain in the neck at the best of times! To complicate matters further if you keep a garden fish pond you will also need to consider what needs to be done with your fish friends!
Do Not Add Gravel To Your Garden Fish Pond ... The major problem with using gravel for decoration and effect on your pond floor is that it creates stagnant areas that becomes a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria.
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April 25, 2009
Garden Fish Ponds Easier Than Large Koi Ponds
To achieve healthy, large Koi you will need a large pond and ensure that the pond water is free from ammonia. There are also specialist feeding regimes that will need to be adhered to. Here is a list of the basics needed to achieve large Koi fish ...
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- Correctly fitted bottom drains.
- Correct shape
A Pond skimmer to remove organic matter. - A deep pond that is at least 5ft deep; preferable more.
- An external pond pump that is capable of producing high flow rates.
- A pond heater.
- High end bead filter or vortex filter with Japanese matting.
- A spare external pond pump.
- Highly regular and thorough cleaning regimes.
- An air pump.
- Specialist Koi food.
If you are a hobbyist pond keeper with a small to medium sized fish pond then you will obviously not need all the specialist equipment outlined above. You will however need a pond pump, pond filter and UV clarifier ...
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-koipondequipment.html ...Learn how to choose the right pond keeping equipment online, to save money, Guaranteed! Go to http://www.garden-pond-filters.com to learn everything you need to know NOW!
April 24, 2009
Japanese Matting, Koi Ponds And Pond Air Pumps
The vast majority of smaller fish ponds do not need a pond air pump as the oxygen demands of the pond fish and pond filter system are not as excessive as those of a large Koipond.
Oxygen is critical to the effective functioning of bacteria, responsible for breaking ammonia in pond water. These bacteria live in a biological pond filter
If you were to attach an analyzer to your pond system and measure the levels of ammonia and oxygen before the pond filter and after the pond filter, you would see something along the lines of the following ...
Just before feeding your the ammonia levels and oxygen levels at the intake of the pond filter would be be low and high respectively. The level of ammonia leaving the filter would be minimal and the level of oxygen would be lower.
If you were to repeat the measurements above for fish ponds after feeding a much higher ammonia level with a normal high oxygen level would be observed. On the outlet side of the bio filter you would see a much lower oxygen measurement and a significantly lower ammonia level.
What has happened? The beneficial bacteria consumed as much of the ammonia as possible and absorbed lots of oxygen from the circulating water to be able to achieve this. The Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria, however could not convert all the ammonia this time around, as the amount of oxygen was depleted too quickly.
In order for the bacteria to convert the ammonia the next time they require as much oxygen as possible. That it why you should use an air pump, or incorporate a waterfall into your pond system.
Based on the above discussion it is obvious that filter bacteria need lots of oxygen and that oxygen is removed in the bio-filter continuously in the bio filter process itself. The best place to place the air pump is directly into the pond filter system as close as possible to the nitrifying bacteria. For this reason Japanese matting and vortex filters are probably the best pond filtration system available.
Do yourself a favor and add as much oxygen into your Koi pond as you can. An air pump with air stones is definitely a recommendation I would consider.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-japanesemattingairpump.html ...
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Oxygen is critical to the effective functioning of bacteria, responsible for breaking ammonia in pond water. These bacteria live in a biological pond filter
If you were to attach an analyzer to your pond system and measure the levels of ammonia and oxygen before the pond filter and after the pond filter, you would see something along the lines of the following ...
Just before feeding your the ammonia levels and oxygen levels at the intake of the pond filter would be be low and high respectively. The level of ammonia leaving the filter would be minimal and the level of oxygen would be lower.
If you were to repeat the measurements above for fish ponds after feeding a much higher ammonia level with a normal high oxygen level would be observed. On the outlet side of the bio filter you would see a much lower oxygen measurement and a significantly lower ammonia level.
What has happened? The beneficial bacteria consumed as much of the ammonia as possible and absorbed lots of oxygen from the circulating water to be able to achieve this. The Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria, however could not convert all the ammonia this time around, as the amount of oxygen was depleted too quickly.
In order for the bacteria to convert the ammonia the next time they require as much oxygen as possible. That it why you should use an air pump, or incorporate a waterfall into your pond system.
Based on the above discussion it is obvious that filter bacteria need lots of oxygen and that oxygen is removed in the bio-filter continuously in the bio filter process itself. The best place to place the air pump is directly into the pond filter system as close as possible to the nitrifying bacteria. For this reason Japanese matting and vortex filters are probably the best pond filtration system available.
Do yourself a favor and add as much oxygen into your Koi pond as you can. An air pump with air stones is definitely a recommendation I would consider.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-japanesemattingairpump.html ...
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Garden Ponds, Sand, Anaerobic Bacteria And Mosquitoes
You are probably wondering what mosquitoes and placing sand on the pond floor have got to do with each other? Mosquitoes like stagnant ponds, without moving water. The addition of sand to a garden pond will cause stagnant areas to develop, and with it unwanted mosquitoes and other unwanted guests.
If a fish pond has adequate circulation and excellent pond filtration in place then mosquitoes will not be a problem. If the pond contains fish they will use the mosquitoes as a food source.
Mosquito larvae are a natural food source in fish ponds and natural water ways as they spend the majority of their life beneath the water surface.
The ponds that suffer from mosquitoes are those ponds which have poor water circulation, no fish and have stagnant areas, such as those created by barrel features. If you want to avoid mosquitoes in your pond then add a few small gold fish.
Many pond keepers utilize a layer of sand on the pond floor or marginal shelves to facilitate planting of aquatic plants … STOP DOING THIS!
The reason I say this is because sand over a length of time will mix with organic waste, fish excrement and uneaten fish food. This coupled with the fact that oxygen will not be able to reach these organic products will cause decaying to take place. Decaying organic matter as a by product produces ammonia, carbon dioxide and uses up oxygen.
The accumulation of this rotting matter also encourages the build up of anaerobic bacteria (bacteria that do not need oxygen to survive). These bacteria are responsible for the nasty smells and are often the cause of pond fish health problems.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-mosquitosand.html ...
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If a fish pond has adequate circulation and excellent pond filtration in place then mosquitoes will not be a problem. If the pond contains fish they will use the mosquitoes as a food source.
Mosquito larvae are a natural food source in fish ponds and natural water ways as they spend the majority of their life beneath the water surface.
The ponds that suffer from mosquitoes are those ponds which have poor water circulation, no fish and have stagnant areas, such as those created by barrel features. If you want to avoid mosquitoes in your pond then add a few small gold fish.
Many pond keepers utilize a layer of sand on the pond floor or marginal shelves to facilitate planting of aquatic plants … STOP DOING THIS!
The reason I say this is because sand over a length of time will mix with organic waste, fish excrement and uneaten fish food. This coupled with the fact that oxygen will not be able to reach these organic products will cause decaying to take place. Decaying organic matter as a by product produces ammonia, carbon dioxide and uses up oxygen.
The accumulation of this rotting matter also encourages the build up of anaerobic bacteria (bacteria that do not need oxygen to survive). These bacteria are responsible for the nasty smells and are often the cause of pond fish health problems.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-mosquitosand.html ...
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April 23, 2009
How To Prepare Your Pond Fish When You Move
- About 1 week before the actual moving date it is advisable to stop feeding. The reason for this is to reduce the amount of liquid and solid waste produced. Liquid and solid metabolic waste contains ammonia.
- You will need a temporary home for the fish. The best way to do this is to hire or buy a kiddies swimming pool.
- Clean out the temporary holding pool using water, taken from the pond; do not use municipal tap water as this contains chlorine, which is poisonous to aquatic fish life.
- You will need to borrow or hire a pond air pump; preferably one with some way of distributing the air such as air stones. This is critical to prevent fish stress and to keep your fish alive, while they are in their temporary home.
- On the day you plan to empty the main pond arrange to pump as much pond water as possible into the temporary pool. Start pumping oxygen into the pool using the air pump.
- Fill the temporary pond to about half full. This will stop the fish from leaping out of the water and out of the pond.
- If you intend to keep the fish in the temporary pond for a period of time then you will need to replace about 50% of the water on a daily basis with fresh water.
- Be vigilant and keep a careful eye on the behaviour of your Koi and goldfish. If you see any strange behaviour just as sulking on the pond floor or gasping for air at the top of the pond, for long periods of time then change a portion of water immediately and make sure the air pump is working properly.
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Gravel Is Bad For Garden Ponds
All garden ponds, no matter what size they are will contain microscopic bacteria and other pathogenic organisms. Many of these organisms feed on waste products, in order to survive. Some of these organisms, known as aerobic bacteria require oxygen to survive, whilst others known as anaerobic bacteria don’t. It is the anaerobic bacteria that tend to be a nuisance, causing bacterial infections and other fish disease problems.
It makes sense therefore to create a fish pond environment which potentially limits the possibility for stagnant areas to develop, as a result of anaerobic bacteria multiplying.
The major problem with using gravel for decoration and effect on your pond floor is that it creates stagnant areas that become a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria. Any uneaten fish food or fish waste that hasn’t been removed by a pond skimmer or pond filter will fall to the pond floor, lodging itself between the gravel. This waste accumulates, and in the absence of oxygen soon turns into a breeding place for the unwanted anaerobic bacteria.
Professional Koi keepers and Koi breeders go to great lengths to ensure that the bottom of their large ponds, are kept free from as much waste food, and fish waste as possible. The installation of bottom drains through which debris is purges is common place. All this is done to reduce the opportunity for anaerobic bacteria to develop. Koi are a species of carp that are not as hardy as other forms of carp or goldfish varieties and are susceptible to what is known as stress.
My advice to you would be to remove any gravel from the bottom of your fish pond or water garden immediately. Hopefully you will be in luck and it is fall or winter time. There is less activity taking place during these colder months, with cooler pond water temperatures.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-gravelbad.html ...
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It makes sense therefore to create a fish pond environment which potentially limits the possibility for stagnant areas to develop, as a result of anaerobic bacteria multiplying.
The major problem with using gravel for decoration and effect on your pond floor is that it creates stagnant areas that become a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria. Any uneaten fish food or fish waste that hasn’t been removed by a pond skimmer or pond filter will fall to the pond floor, lodging itself between the gravel. This waste accumulates, and in the absence of oxygen soon turns into a breeding place for the unwanted anaerobic bacteria.
Professional Koi keepers and Koi breeders go to great lengths to ensure that the bottom of their large ponds, are kept free from as much waste food, and fish waste as possible. The installation of bottom drains through which debris is purges is common place. All this is done to reduce the opportunity for anaerobic bacteria to develop. Koi are a species of carp that are not as hardy as other forms of carp or goldfish varieties and are susceptible to what is known as stress.
My advice to you would be to remove any gravel from the bottom of your fish pond or water garden immediately. Hopefully you will be in luck and it is fall or winter time. There is less activity taking place during these colder months, with cooler pond water temperatures.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-gravelbad.html ...
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4 Reasons To Know Your Pond Volume
- In a backyard fish pond there is nearly always too many fish for the size of the pond and there is a constant battle to control the build up of ammonia, before it reaches toxic levels. That is why a garden pond biofilter is essential. To correctly specify the right pond filter you will need to know your pond volume. It is the volume of pond water together with the fish load that determines the pond size required and the amount of pond filter media required, so that you create a good bio filtration system.
- Pond volume is also required to specify the size of the UV sterilizer or UV clarifier needed to prevent your pond water from becoming green with suspended algae.
For a fish pond of around 250 gallons in full sun and highly stocked a 4 watt UV will be adequate. - If you ever need to add a chemical pond treatment to your garden pond then you must know your pond volume, to avoid over dosing. All pond water additives work on the principle of x amount of ounces per gallon of pond water. There is no room for guess work here; not if you want to keep your fish, nitrifying bacteria and aquatic plants free from harm.
- A fourth reason you might need to know the pond volume is to be able to specify your pond pump.
TIP! If you are building a new fish pond or water garden and have a water meter then why not take advantage and record the volume of water used to fill the pond.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-knowpondvolume.html ...
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April 22, 2009
Adding Salt To A Fish Pond Is A No Brainer
I believe that those pond keepers who do this are under the impression that it is a good way of protecting their Koi and goldfish from parasitic infections. Whilst salt is a remedy for many fish parasites it should be carried out in the form of a salt bath, administered to the infected fish, in isolation.
I have written several articles regarding the subject of adding water additives and pond treatments to garden fish ponds. I am in principle against the idea and the more I write, the more I am convinced that it is a bad idea.
The major danger of adding salt to a fish pond is the way in which the salt reacts with other chemical pond additives. Potassium permanganate, for example is a common treatment for parasitic fish infections. However, when it reacts with salt, potassium permanganate can under certain conditions release chlorine into the pond environment. Trust me you do not want this to happen! Chlorine is poisonous to aquatic pond life and fish.
Salt when used in conjunction with Zeolite can also release ammonia back into the pond water. Zeolite is sold as a pond buffer to remove ammonia from the pond water. Unfortunately when it reacts with salt it causes the ammonia to be released back into pond water.
Please be aware that under certain circumstances it will be necessary to add chemical treatments to your garden pond, but you will need to be aware of your pond volume along with the consequences of adding these chemicals to the pond water. Certain chemicals have a nasty habit of destroying nitrifying beneficial bacteria. It is important to be aware of your actions. If you are in any doubt whatsoever, seek an alternative or seek advice.
As stated earlier in this article, salt has its advantages in fighting off parasite infestations. You should however treat the infected Koi, goldfish etc in isolation in a high concentration bath. A bowl or tub is perfect for the job.
In fact I would go as far as to say that you should use salt to treat parasites in pond fish before you use any other treatment method. Salt in moderation is harmless to Koi, goldfish and other pond fish as well as being harmless to nitrifying bacteria. Salt is also easy to get hold of and very cheap; much cheaper than medicated pond fish treatments.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-saltbadforponds.html ...
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I have written several articles regarding the subject of adding water additives and pond treatments to garden fish ponds. I am in principle against the idea and the more I write, the more I am convinced that it is a bad idea.
The major danger of adding salt to a fish pond is the way in which the salt reacts with other chemical pond additives. Potassium permanganate, for example is a common treatment for parasitic fish infections. However, when it reacts with salt, potassium permanganate can under certain conditions release chlorine into the pond environment. Trust me you do not want this to happen! Chlorine is poisonous to aquatic pond life and fish.
Salt when used in conjunction with Zeolite can also release ammonia back into the pond water. Zeolite is sold as a pond buffer to remove ammonia from the pond water. Unfortunately when it reacts with salt it causes the ammonia to be released back into pond water.
Please be aware that under certain circumstances it will be necessary to add chemical treatments to your garden pond, but you will need to be aware of your pond volume along with the consequences of adding these chemicals to the pond water. Certain chemicals have a nasty habit of destroying nitrifying beneficial bacteria. It is important to be aware of your actions. If you are in any doubt whatsoever, seek an alternative or seek advice.
As stated earlier in this article, salt has its advantages in fighting off parasite infestations. You should however treat the infected Koi, goldfish etc in isolation in a high concentration bath. A bowl or tub is perfect for the job.
In fact I would go as far as to say that you should use salt to treat parasites in pond fish before you use any other treatment method. Salt in moderation is harmless to Koi, goldfish and other pond fish as well as being harmless to nitrifying bacteria. Salt is also easy to get hold of and very cheap; much cheaper than medicated pond fish treatments.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-saltbadforponds.html ...
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Why Should I Test My Pond Water?
The vast majority of pond keeping and water gardening books advocate that you should test your pond water as soon as you suspect that there is a problem; erratic fish behaviour, dead fish, for example. The only problem here is that you have nothing to compare the results with. For this reason it is important to carry out regular pond water tests, using a suitable pond test kit.
The problem with acting on the results of one test alone is that your pond may be a perfectly safe, healthy environment, even though your pH readings, ammonia reading etc is slightly away from the perceived norm. If you do not have a history for comparison purposes then you may fix what isn’t broken!
Unless you are prepared to carry out frequent pond water testing then do not do it at all. You do not need to write a copy of war and peace, simply make a recording in a diary or if you want to be more technical in a spreadsheet. A spreadsheet is a good idea as it is easy to produce a chart. You will easily be able to see when there have been significant changes; time of year, time of day etc.
TIP! Always take your measurements at the same time of the day. This will help to avoid common daily fluctuations, such as pond Ph, ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia and nitrite levels will nearly always increase just after you have fed your Koi and other pond fish.
It is also a good idea to always use the same brand of pond water testing equipment. Always keep an eye on the use by date. If the product has expired then you may not be able to rely on the results given.
The best test kit by far is the behaviour of your fish.
When choosing a pond test kit always buy the best that you can afford. You nearly always get what you pay for, particularly with pond keeping equipments and pond testing products.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-testpondregularly.html ...
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The problem with acting on the results of one test alone is that your pond may be a perfectly safe, healthy environment, even though your pH readings, ammonia reading etc is slightly away from the perceived norm. If you do not have a history for comparison purposes then you may fix what isn’t broken!
Unless you are prepared to carry out frequent pond water testing then do not do it at all. You do not need to write a copy of war and peace, simply make a recording in a diary or if you want to be more technical in a spreadsheet. A spreadsheet is a good idea as it is easy to produce a chart. You will easily be able to see when there have been significant changes; time of year, time of day etc.
TIP! Always take your measurements at the same time of the day. This will help to avoid common daily fluctuations, such as pond Ph, ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia and nitrite levels will nearly always increase just after you have fed your Koi and other pond fish.
It is also a good idea to always use the same brand of pond water testing equipment. Always keep an eye on the use by date. If the product has expired then you may not be able to rely on the results given.
The best test kit by far is the behaviour of your fish.
When choosing a pond test kit always buy the best that you can afford. You nearly always get what you pay for, particularly with pond keeping equipments and pond testing products.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-testpondregularly.html ...
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How To Keep Your Koi & Golfish Fry Alive
It’s a cruel world out there and your garden pond is no different, particularly for the fry of goldfish and Koi. Birds and larger pond fish will readily eat them up.
Create a fine mesh bag that is about 2ft deep from shade netting. You do not have to use shade netting but this material is soft and smooth, without sharp, hard edges. The choice of material will need to allow water to pass through it.
Attach the mesh bag, containing the baby fish to a piece of wood, foam or polystyrene. The aim is to allow the net containing the fish to float around the pond. You will need to add a few stones or pebbles to the base of the bag.
The hardest part is to find the little swimmers in the first place and then to catch them. Many goldfish are black when they are born and only turn gold as they get older. For this reason they are often camouflaged by the depths of the pond and shadows.
Collect clumps of weed/aquatic plants on which fish have laid eggs or in which the very young fry might be hiding and just place this in the floating bag.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-fish-protectbabyfish.html ...
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Create a fine mesh bag that is about 2ft deep from shade netting. You do not have to use shade netting but this material is soft and smooth, without sharp, hard edges. The choice of material will need to allow water to pass through it.
Attach the mesh bag, containing the baby fish to a piece of wood, foam or polystyrene. The aim is to allow the net containing the fish to float around the pond. You will need to add a few stones or pebbles to the base of the bag.
The hardest part is to find the little swimmers in the first place and then to catch them. Many goldfish are black when they are born and only turn gold as they get older. For this reason they are often camouflaged by the depths of the pond and shadows.
Collect clumps of weed/aquatic plants on which fish have laid eggs or in which the very young fry might be hiding and just place this in the floating bag.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-fish-protectbabyfish.html ...
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April 21, 2009
Control PH Swings To Maintain Healthy Pond Water
The subject of water chemistry and in particular pond water pH is extremely complex. A mathematics degree would certainly come in handy hear; unfortunately I do not have one but do know a bit about pond keeping and how you can prevent massive swings in pH levels.
Buffering, as the name implies does exactly what it says on the label; it buffers, insulates, minimizes, or protects against swings (massive changes) in pond pH. Pond water pH is affected directly by changes to the alkalinity or acidity of the water. Soft water, which is low in buffering capacity, will show large increases or decreases in pH when acid or alkali is added to the pond water or removed from it. In ponds containing soft water there will be significant pH swings between day and night, due to the behavior of aquatic plants and pond algae.
Pond fish, particularly Koi carp become stressed when there are changes to their usual habitat. You have heard the term “Stress is a killer”. This term is particularly pertinent when it comes to fish keeping. When Fish become stressed they become susceptible to the ever present bacteria, living in the pond water.
The addition of pond chemicals to your pond or drastic changes to a pond fish’s environment may cause stress to raise its ugly head.
It is always a good idea when introducing a new fish into your existing pond to allow the bag containing the new Koi or gold fish float on the surface of the pond for a while.
Water hardness is broken down into what is called temporary hardness and permanent hardness: Temporary hardness is the levels of calcium and magnesium hydroxides, carbonates and bicarbonates in the water. Permanent hardness is the level of sulphate and chlorides, for example in the pond water.
In the vast majority of garden ponds, hard water is better as it buffers the water. Buffered water (high in carbonates) prevents pH swings and helps to prevent impurities such as copper from becoming a significant problem for your Koi and gold fish. Hard pond water also helps your pond fish to regulate its own metabolic processes, thereby helping to reduce the susceptibility to stress.
Pond water that is too hard will often suffer from blanket weed and string algae problems. If you are having problems with blanketweed or string algae then try Viresco Koi or Viresco Aqua, a guaranteed way to eliminate this common pond problem. It is a UK product that can be shipped to any where in the world at a very low cost. It really is a miracle cure, no exaggeration!
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-pHhardtocontrol.htm ...
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Buffering, as the name implies does exactly what it says on the label; it buffers, insulates, minimizes, or protects against swings (massive changes) in pond pH. Pond water pH is affected directly by changes to the alkalinity or acidity of the water. Soft water, which is low in buffering capacity, will show large increases or decreases in pH when acid or alkali is added to the pond water or removed from it. In ponds containing soft water there will be significant pH swings between day and night, due to the behavior of aquatic plants and pond algae.
Pond fish, particularly Koi carp become stressed when there are changes to their usual habitat. You have heard the term “Stress is a killer”. This term is particularly pertinent when it comes to fish keeping. When Fish become stressed they become susceptible to the ever present bacteria, living in the pond water.
The addition of pond chemicals to your pond or drastic changes to a pond fish’s environment may cause stress to raise its ugly head.
It is always a good idea when introducing a new fish into your existing pond to allow the bag containing the new Koi or gold fish float on the surface of the pond for a while.
Water hardness is broken down into what is called temporary hardness and permanent hardness: Temporary hardness is the levels of calcium and magnesium hydroxides, carbonates and bicarbonates in the water. Permanent hardness is the level of sulphate and chlorides, for example in the pond water.
In the vast majority of garden ponds, hard water is better as it buffers the water. Buffered water (high in carbonates) prevents pH swings and helps to prevent impurities such as copper from becoming a significant problem for your Koi and gold fish. Hard pond water also helps your pond fish to regulate its own metabolic processes, thereby helping to reduce the susceptibility to stress.
Pond water that is too hard will often suffer from blanket weed and string algae problems. If you are having problems with blanketweed or string algae then try Viresco Koi or Viresco Aqua, a guaranteed way to eliminate this common pond problem. It is a UK product that can be shipped to any where in the world at a very low cost. It really is a miracle cure, no exaggeration!
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-pHhardtocontrol.htm ...
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Take Care When Adding Pond Treatments To Avoid Killing Bacteria And Fish
I just can’t see how adding salt to a pond for the sake of it can do any good. In fact the opposite is true! Chemicals have a habit of reacting together; in some instances this can have disastrous consequences. Here is an example ...
You have added salt to your pond water because a friend of yours told you that he had read somewhere that this is a good cure for pond fish parasites. After a week or so nothing seems to have happened.
You do some research and discover that potassium permanganate is a great cure. Great! You now add the potassium permanganate to the pond, applying the correct dose. What you did not realize is that pond salt and potassium permanganate react together to form chlorine. This is highly toxic to Koi, goldfish and aquatic life, even in small doses.
Pond salt is also bad when used in conjunction with Zeolite. Zeolite is used in pond keeping as a means of absorbing ammonia, which as we know is produced by pond fish and decaying organic matter. Unfortunately when Zeolite is packed with ammonia and mixes with the pond salt it releases the ammonia back into the pond water, in high concentrations. Ammonia is a toxic chemical that will kill your pond fish in high concentrations.
Do not add chemicals to your pond unless you are absolutely sure you need to and you know what the consequences might be.
When Adding Chemicals To Ponds Consider The Following ...
You have added salt to your pond water because a friend of yours told you that he had read somewhere that this is a good cure for pond fish parasites. After a week or so nothing seems to have happened.
You do some research and discover that potassium permanganate is a great cure. Great! You now add the potassium permanganate to the pond, applying the correct dose. What you did not realize is that pond salt and potassium permanganate react together to form chlorine. This is highly toxic to Koi, goldfish and aquatic life, even in small doses.
Pond salt is also bad when used in conjunction with Zeolite. Zeolite is used in pond keeping as a means of absorbing ammonia, which as we know is produced by pond fish and decaying organic matter. Unfortunately when Zeolite is packed with ammonia and mixes with the pond salt it releases the ammonia back into the pond water, in high concentrations. Ammonia is a toxic chemical that will kill your pond fish in high concentrations.
Do not add chemicals to your pond unless you are absolutely sure you need to and you know what the consequences might be.
When Adding Chemicals To Ponds Consider The Following ...
- It is critically important before you add any chemical treatments to your pond to know the actual pond volume.
- Once you are fully aware of the volume then be sure that you add the correct dosage, following the instructions carefully. Be very careful of over dosing.
- When fish ponds are over dosed, usually through the instructions not being followed correctly or the pond owners not being aware of the correct dosage to apply, there can be some dire consequences.
- Malachite Green for example is a dye commonly used to treat Koi and goldfish parasites as well as fungus disease in fish ponds. An overdose of Malachite Green would more than likely kill the parasite or fungus! However it would also kill off the nitrifying bacteria, colonizing the pond biomedia, housed in your garden pond filter.
- If you insist on treating the whole pond then it is advisable to switch off the pond filter for an hour or so. Make sure that it is no longer than this as after 5 to 6 hours the nitrifying Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria, responsible for breaking down ammonia, will be totally wiped out!
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-chemicals-beware.html ...
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April 20, 2009
Get Rid Of Pond Problems And Hassles The Right Way
- All garden ponds from small preformed patio ponds to large Koi ponds require a biological pond filter system in place with a suitable pond filter media, on which nitrifying bacteria can live.
- Sand filters are bad … When I hear about mechanical sand filters being used in fish ponds as a means of purifying the water I cringe. Please read this article to find out why YOU MUST NEVER USE A MECHANICAL SAND FILTER in a fish pond. They cause more harm than good and are actually very poor at purifying pond water
- Have you ever wondered why during the summer the color of your pond water starts to turn a green or murky brown color. The reason for this is due to microscopic algal cells, known as floating algae, planktonic algae or pea soup algae. The only really effective measure of controlling this is to install an ultraviolet sterilizer or ultraviolet clarifier.
- All backyard fish ponds need as much oxygen as you can supply them with. Atmospheric oxygen does not dissolve in still water very easily. It is the purpose of a pond pump to supply much needed oxygen into the pond system and to ensure that your pond filter beneficial bacteria are supplied with a constant supply of oxygen.
- In bygone days the choice of material for making a fish pond was concrete. Thankfully this is no longer the case and there are other alternatives, such as preformed fiberglass ponds and flexible liner ponds.
- The most commonly pond problem encountered by pond keepers is dirty pond water. Always use a well specified biological pond filter; trust me if you want to keep Koi and goldfish or any other pond fish for that matter then you will need one … No ifs … No buts. Select the right pond biofilter in the beginning so as to avoid hassles further down the line. Would you buy a new car without an engine?
- The second piece of pond keeping equipment that is a MUST HAVE is the pond pump. Depending upon the size of the pond you will either use a submersible pond pump or an external centrifugal pump. The latter is usually only needed in large Koi ponds, requiring large volumes of water to be pumped.
- If you want a fountain effect in your pond choose a pump that comes with a fountain attachment. Submersible fountain pumps are a popular pump variety and there are many to choose from. Make sure that the particular fountain pump model includes a strainer device. This prevents the fountain nozzle from becoming blocked by pond debris.
- If you do not need a fountain display in your pond then a filter pump is a better choice all around, as there is physically less that can go wrong. A filter pump is the preferred choice of submersible pump for use with modern pressurized pond filters, such as the OASE Filtoclear range or Fishmate Powerclenz models.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-backtobasicspondkeeping.html ...
New Pond Hints And Tips
These are prime objectives that you need to be aware of when building and maintaining a garden fish pond. I have put together a check list to try to give you some idea of what is needed to achieve a thriving, healthy water garden pond.
- Many people wishing to install a backyard pond do not give enough thought to the actual location of the finished project.
- If you have a garden which is also home to tress, particularly deciduous trees or poisonous trees then I would seriously advise you not to place it nearby.
- If you are looking to add some shade then I would recommend that you use aquatic plants to provide shade.
- Always choose well specified, branded pond keeping equipment. This is particularly important when choosing the right pond pump, biological pond filter and UV equipment.
- The last thing you want is to start excavating your pond to discover that you have inadvertently built over or near to one of the following: water pipes, gas pipes and electrical conduit systems.
- The choice of actual pond will normally depend upon whether you are looking for a professional Koi pond, in which case you will probably select a concrete pond or whether you are an avid water gardening fan, who simply wants to enjoy the beauty and tranquility that a garden fish pond offers. For small ponds the best choice is a preformed liner pond. If you are looking for a medium sized pond then a flexible EPDM rubber or butyl rubber pond liner is your best bet
- If like myself you do not live in a temperate year round warm climate then you will need to consider what will happen to the pond inhabitants during winter. In cold winter climates where there is the distinct possibility of the pond freezing over. You will need to install a pond heater or pond deicer as a way of preventing the pond from freezing over or at least maintaining a hole in the ice service, through which toxic gases can escape.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-planningprep.html ...
April 19, 2009
Viresco Blanketweed And String Algae Eliminators
How many pond keepers have asked themselves this simple question "How do I get rid of blanket weed from my pond?" The answer has always been the same ... Wish I Knew! ... Now, thanks to John McLauchlan we all know.
Blanketweed is also known as silk weed, filamentous algae, curly weed and maiden's hair. It is not the same as suspended floating algae, responsible for causing algae blooms; algae blooms cause your pond water to look like a bowl of pea soup and starve the pond of oxygen.
Viresco Blanketweed & Pond Algae Products
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- No more blanket weed or troublesome string algae guaranteed.
- No more dirty pond floors because Viresco digests organic waste.
- Viresco improves water quality and makes for healthier fish.
- You no longer have to worry about algae bloom stopping you from seeing your pond fish.
Blanketweed is also known as silk weed, filamentous algae, curly weed and maiden's hair. It is not the same as suspended floating algae, responsible for causing algae blooms; algae blooms cause your pond water to look like a bowl of pea soup and starve the pond of oxygen.
Viresco Blanketweed & Pond Algae Products
- Viresco Aqua was introduced in 2007 and was originally developed for use in commercial farming, to increase the size and growth of fish. Surprisingly enough this wonder product also managed to inhibit the growth of algae, including planktonic algae and filamentous string algae varieties, such as blanket weed. Viresco Aqua also contains an organic waste digester which will eliminate pond detritus.
- The majority of pond keepers maintain a very clean ponds and do not have a need for the organic waste digester part of Viresco Aqua. If you are simply looking for the blanket weed buster then Viresco Koi is the one for you.
- In July 2001, Viresco Digester was introduced to the pond keeping market. It contains mainly organic waste digester and none of the nutrient remover.
- Viresco Aquarium was introduced to the Aquaria market in 2003. Viresco Aquarium has been designed to remove nitrate and to reduce phosphate in all fresh water aquariums. The microbial formula actively keeps algae from developing on the glass walls of the fish tank. Viresco Aquarium, which will also digest organic waste, is packed in small capsules, each of which will treat 10 to 15 gallons (45 to 70 litres) of water.
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Useful Tips When Selecting Flexible Pond Liner
For medium sized ponds a EPDM rubber or butyl rubber flexible pond liner is your best bet!
These modern rubber pond liners are tough, come with excellent warranties and are extremely flexible in terms of the pond shape achievable. For larger ponds above 120 gallons preformed plastic liner ponds become too expensive.
Rubber pond liners are also an excellent choice for water lily ponds.
For ponds below about 120 gallons it would be very wise to choose from a range of preformed pond liners or preformed fish ponds as they are better known.
Flexible pond liner is not suitable generally speaking for an indoor or patio pond rather use preformed pond liners. Fiberglass preformed fish ponds are ideal for this.
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These modern rubber pond liners are tough, come with excellent warranties and are extremely flexible in terms of the pond shape achievable. For larger ponds above 120 gallons preformed plastic liner ponds become too expensive.
Rubber pond liners are also an excellent choice for water lily ponds.
For ponds below about 120 gallons it would be very wise to choose from a range of preformed pond liners or preformed fish ponds as they are better known.
Flexible pond liner is not suitable generally speaking for an indoor or patio pond rather use preformed pond liners. Fiberglass preformed fish ponds are ideal for this.
Money Saving Advice For Selecting The Right Garden Pond Liner
- Once you know how much the required pond keeping equipment will cost, you will also know how much you have to spend on the pond liner. The thickness will need to be at least 45mils.
- For ease of convenience many EPDM and butyl rubber liners are available off the roll or available in pre-cut sizes.
- To estimate the size of the liner for a pond: length of liner = (length + (2 x depth))+10% width of liner = (width + (2 x depth))+10%
- To estimate the size of the liner for a waterfall roughly: Length of liner = Length along the horizontal + (2 x height of the head); Width of liner = width of widest header pool + (2 X depth)
- Plan your pool with one dimension equals a standard width of liner off the rolls. EPDM generally comes in multiples of 5 feet up to about 25 feet. PVC (plastic liner) and butyl rubber in 2 meter widths up to 8 meters in some places.
- Dramatic indentations in the shape use up extra liner. Measure along the contour of the pool excavation just to check before you try to install it. In desperation you can gain a few inches by laying it in skew, using the extra length of the diagonal.
- Ideally you should tuck and fold the liner into place; don't stretch it into place. Just before you cut too much off around the top, then you can make sure it is properly fitted by filling it with water.
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April 18, 2009
General Pond Keeping Hints And Tips
- If your pond has a lot of debris and sludge on the pond floor then why don’t you get your hands on a pond vac.
- What to do if you have a leak! You could always do a quick check by switching off the pond pump (not for too long mind!). If the level stops falling then the leak is outside the pond. If however the level continues to fall then you have more than likely got a leak.
- Ensure that there is an adequate supply of oxygen to the pond water. Awaterfall, venturi or air pump will do this.
- If you have a pond that does not have a uniform depth then it is relatively easy to measure the average depth. Take a long stick and mark it at say 2 inch intervals with a water proof marker pen. Walk around the pond and take readings from about 10 different places. After you have finished taking the readings, add them together and divide by 10.
- Salt is predominantly used as a means of fixing bacterial fish infections. If you have a sick fish then it is better to treat the individual fish in an isolation tank or pond. Be careful to make sure that you do not overdose.
- Avoid spreading fertilizers around the pond area and do your best to prevent water run off from the garden into the fish pond. The phosphates lead to an increase in algae blooms and blanket weed problems.
- If you have a pH reading that is high then add a touch of diluted vinegar, or lemon juice. If your pond pH reading is low then you will need to add some baking powder.
The secret is to do this gradually over a period of time. You should add some, wait for a while and then take another pH reading. - When carrying out routine pond water tests remember to check the use by dates, as chemicals are time sensitive. Take the readings at the same time daily.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-pond-generalpondkeeping.html
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April 17, 2009
Koi Ponds Are Different from A Garden Fish Pond
A Koi pond is different from a regular fish pond and is also much more expensive to build and maintain than your average garden pond.
Large Koi require a lot of extra care and specialist pond filtration equipment to maintain clear, pure pond water. They will consume vast amounts of food and produce a lot of biological waste as a result.
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Large Koi require a lot of extra care and specialist pond filtration equipment to maintain clear, pure pond water. They will consume vast amounts of food and produce a lot of biological waste as a result.
- Koi Pond Size - Exercise is important to the shape and form of Koi. In order to be able to exercise they need a lot of space in which to swim around. Professional Koi ponds are large and deep - usually between 5ft to 6ft deep.
- Koi Pond Filtration – Specialized fluidized bed filters (bead filters) or vortex filters are needed, in order to quickly break down the build up of high volumes of ammonia and solid waste.
- Koi Ponds And Algae Bloom – The last thing that is needed in a professional Koi pond environment is a large development of green pond water, caused by algae blooms. It is critical to use a correctly specified, high powered UV sterilizer.
- Koi Ponds and Water Temperature – Koi like warmer pond water. Professional Koi keepers living in the colder states use a pond heater to keep the water warm.
- Koi Ponds and Pond Pumps – Specialist centrifugal external pumps are needed. External pond pumps have been designed to handle large volumes of water and high flow rates.
- Koi Ponds and Electricity – What would happen if there was an electricity cut, leaving you without power for some time? A backup electricity source would be required, which would need to kick in as soon as the main power supply was interrupted.
- Koi Ponds and Koi Fish Food – Koi need proper nutrition, containing the right balance of protein, amino acids, vitamins and colour enhancers.
- Koi Ponds And Oxygen – A pond air pump is a great way to ensure maximum oxygen saturation. Koi ponds need plenty of oxygen.
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How Much Fish Food Should I Feed My Pond Fish
The amount of food eaten by your pond fish will depend upon the species and the water temperature. In warmer water temperatures the metabolic rate is higher and fish are constantly hungry and seeking food to eat; particularly Koi. As the pond water gets colder the metabolic rate slows down, and with it the fish’s appetite.
The following guide will help to give you an idea. Please note that it is a rule of thumb and is based upon a single fish living in a pond water temperature of 20 Celsius (68 Fahrenheit) ...
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The following guide will help to give you an idea. Please note that it is a rule of thumb and is based upon a single fish living in a pond water temperature of 20 Celsius (68 Fahrenheit) ...
- For a 6 inch fish that weighs 2 ounce or 50 grams - feed 1% of this weight per fish per day in total.
- For a 12 inch koi that weighs about 14 ounce or 400 grams - feed 1% of this per Koi per day in total.
- At 15 Celsius (59 Fahrenheit) you should reduce the amount of food fed by 1/3rd.
- At 10 Celsius (50 degrees F) reduce the amount of food fed to about 1/10th.
- When it comes to feeding Koi and goldfish it is always better to feed little and often. If you have the time then 5 times a day is ideal, but not essential.
- Floating pond food food rather is better than sinking pond food. This helps to prevent excess food from decaying on the pond floor. It also gives the fish more time to eat.
- If you have mixture of large and small fish grind the food up into smaller particles to give the smaller fish a chance to eat before the bigger, greedier fish eat everything.
The reason for all of the above 3 tips is that the amount of food fed has an almost immediate and direct impact upon water quality and biofilter load.
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April 16, 2009
From time to time you will need to carry out routine maintenance work on your pond, whether it is a preformed pond, liner pond or concrete Koi pond. You may have a leak or a crack for example which necessitates emptying the pond.
This can be quite a traumatic event for all concerned, especially for Koi, goldfish and other pond inhabitants. You will of course need to find a temporary home for them. You may have another pond or have a friend with a pond that is willing to let you place your fish there for the time being. If this is the case then please be aware that the larger the fish load, the larger the possibility of ammonia problems arising.
Increased fish loads place more stress on the biological pond filter as it needs to cope with the increased levels of ammonia. This is assuming that you intend to place the fish in a pond environment with a pond filter in place.
What Do I Need To Consider Before I Empty My Fish Pond?
The following steps will significantly reduce the amount of stress placed upon your pond fish and will make for a smoother transition …
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This can be quite a traumatic event for all concerned, especially for Koi, goldfish and other pond inhabitants. You will of course need to find a temporary home for them. You may have another pond or have a friend with a pond that is willing to let you place your fish there for the time being. If this is the case then please be aware that the larger the fish load, the larger the possibility of ammonia problems arising.
Increased fish loads place more stress on the biological pond filter as it needs to cope with the increased levels of ammonia. This is assuming that you intend to place the fish in a pond environment with a pond filter in place.
What Do I Need To Consider Before I Empty My Fish Pond?
The following steps will significantly reduce the amount of stress placed upon your pond fish and will make for a smoother transition …
- Stop feeding your fish a week before you empty the pond.
- Hire or buy a children’s vinyl swimming.
- Clean out the pond with pond water.
- Place your hand on the largest air pump that you can.
- On the day that you empty the pond, pump pond water into the temporary pool.
- Please ensure that you do not over fill the pool; the fish will try to jump out.
- Whilst the fish are in the temporary pool you will need to carry out a 50% water change, daily.
- Remember there is no pond filter and the levels of poisonous ammonia and nitrites will build up.
- Keep a careful eye on the fish. If you see any unusual behaviour then make sure that you change a portion of the water straight away.
- People with serious Koi collections may well decide to have an ammonia removing product available, as a precaution.
- On refilling the fixed pond it would be a good idea to add a chlorine removing product to the fresh tap water or spray the water into the pond as this will help the chlorine to evaporate.
- Take advantage when refilling the pond to measure your pond volume.
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The Secret of Choosing Pond Hose and Pond Pipe Fittings
Choosing the right pipe fittings and the whole issue relating to fittings, pond hose types can be somewhat of a confusing issue at times! To complicate the matter further, fittings and pond hose pipe sizes are often in metric when you want them in imperial and vice versa. This of course usually depends upon where you live.
Why Do I Need Pipe Fittings?
The vast majority of garden pond keepers will have at least 2 pieces of pond keeping equipment that they need to interconnect; a pond pump and biological filter, for example. In some instances they may have many items of equipment that need to be connected together.
There are a myriad of reliable, energy efficient pond pumps available to the water gardening market, these days. Many of these pumps are presold with the relevant pipe fittings included. If you are looking for a reliable pump model then I would recommend products from one of the following world renowned manufacturers:
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Why Do I Need Pipe Fittings?
The vast majority of garden pond keepers will have at least 2 pieces of pond keeping equipment that they need to interconnect; a pond pump and biological filter, for example. In some instances they may have many items of equipment that need to be connected together.
There are a myriad of reliable, energy efficient pond pumps available to the water gardening market, these days. Many of these pumps are presold with the relevant pipe fittings included. If you are looking for a reliable pump model then I would recommend products from one of the following world renowned manufacturers:
- Hozelock Cyprio manufactures the Hozelock Cascade fountain pump and Hozelock Titan range of waterfall pumps, both of which are known for reliability and efficiency.
- Oase are a German manufacturer, considered to be by many the number 1 supplier of water gardening equipment in the world.
- Fish Mate (Animate) makes an excellent range of pond filter and waterfall pumps. They are particularly famous for their pond filter systems and their excellent Supra (Alfagrog) pond filter media.
As water flows from the pump through the pond tubing it will often need to change direction. In order to reduce flow restrictions and save on energy consumption use a fitting that has as smooth a bend as possible. No matter what pump model you use it will loose a bit of flow, for each and every fitting used in connecting equipment together. This is known as pressure drop.
Many pond keepers use what is known as a “T Piece” to split the water flow between 2 pieces of pond keeping equipment. This is a very bad idea! The 90 degree change in water flow causes significant pressure drop and flow restriction; akin to sprinting uphill, wearing heavy boots … Get the picture!
The golden rule when choosing fittings is to always to choose the widest diameter fitting you can; this once again is to lower the pressure drop and therefore maximize the possible amount of flow.
When you use a "Y" piece to split flow then this minimizes friction losses or pressure drop in the fitting. Note the inlet side (white) is of a wider diameter than the outlet and that the 2 outlets have what are called "stepped" fittings shown in red. The idea of the stepped fitting is to make it easier to attach the same fitting to different pipe diameters. Whenever you use any type of stepped fitting attach to the largest diameter pipe you can ... and then CUT OFF the smaller steps so that they do not impede water flow through the pipe and fitting.
Some "Y" fittings have inbuilt valves that allow you to control the flow, the direction of flow and the amount of flow split between the two legs. If you look closely at the picture opposite you will see 2 small in-line valves shown in black.
Which Pond Hose Tube Should I Use?
It is better to use opaque plastic tubing because clear plastic tubing allows sunlight to penetrate it. Algae will grow on the inside of any pipe tubing, providing there are nutrients and sunlight present. The algae colonize the inside of the tubing, reducing the internal diameter through which water is pumped. This yet again causes a pressure drop. Opaque tubing makes it very difficult for sunlight to penetrate and this in turn makes it difficult for algae to grow.
Very often you'll want to bend the pipe and is the second reason transparent pipe is normally not the best choice. The picture shown here is of a roll of ribbed flexible pipe that is perfect for pond keepers. When you bend this kind of pond hose it does not kink. The majority of transparent (see through) pond hose kinks very easily and the impact is a lower water flow to your waterfall or fountain.
All pipe whichever type you decide to use should be as short as possible and should be as wide as possible. By following these 2 simple rules you will ensure the best flow rates from your pump and will save yourself money in electricity costs.
When you attach pipe you'll often use what we is known as a Jubilee Clips; ensure that you use stainless steel, so as to avoid rusting and corrosion. If you have ever tried to remove a rusted clip off your garden hose pipe then you will know exactly what I mean.
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April 15, 2009
How To Choose Water Lilies And Pond Water Plants
- How Pond Plants & Aquatic Plants Prevent Pond Algae ... The majority of aquatic plants are either Water lilies; Oxygenators; Floating pond plants or and Marginals.
- Popular Aquatic Water Lilies Listed By Color For Water Garden Ponds ... Nymphaea require deeper pond water than other pond plants. These easy to grow pond plant are known for their sheer magnificence.
- How to Divide Your Hardy Aquatic Water Lilies in 5 Easy Steps ... Hardy pond lilies, as the name suggests are a tough aquatic plant, capable of thriving in cold water and warm pond temperatures.
- Aquatic Oxygenator Pond Plants - The Great Way To Add Oxygen To Your Pond ... They are extremely beneficial to a pond environment because the oxygen that they produce is released directly into the pond water; conventional plants release the oxygen into the atmosphere.
- Comprehensive List Of Popular Marginals Or Aquatic Marginal Pond Plants ... Marginal pond plants, also known as bog plants because they like to grow in the muddy and boggy ground, around the perimeter of your pond.
- The Easy Way To Choose Floating Aquatic Pond Water Plants ... Floating water plants are an excellent choice for removing excess nitrate and other nutrients from the pond water. They readily compete with planktonic algae and string algae, such as blanket weed for the available nutrients.
- How To Choose Aquatic Fish Pond Plants For A Japanese Water Garden Look ... Japanese water gardens are gaining popularity in western society as a means to add a touch of peace and harmony to our existence.
- What Everybody Ought to Know About Over Wintering Aquatic Pond Plants ... Fall is the time of year when many pond keepers prepare their water garden ponds and aquatic plants for the forthcoming frost; in preparation for the start of the new season, the following spring.
- Beginners Guide To Choosing Aquatic Pond Water Plants Including Water Lilies ... Aquatic water plants are available in many shapes and sizes, each with their own unique appeal!
- Aquatic Pond Water Plant Popular Questions Answered by Peter May ... What Are The Top 5 Veggie Filter Plants? The plant that outperforms and outsells all others is the Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis). Other great choices are the Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus), Soft Rush (Juncus effusus) and True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris).
- Aquatic Pond Water Plant Common English Names And Latin Names ... For those who want to find a specific aquatic plant it may be useful to find the English name that corresponds to the Latin name or vice versa.
- Poisonous Trees And Plants To Keep Away From Your Garden Fish Pond ... If you are a pond keeper it is imperative to ensure that certain species of tree that are poisonous are kept away from your fish pond or water garden.
- What Everybody Ought To Know About Choosing Moisture Loving Plants ... Moisture loving plants grow naturally in boggy ground, they are some of the most colorful plants for water garden and include many of the irises, lobelias and candelabra primulas.
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How To Select Moisture Loving Plants For Your Fish Pond
Moisture loving plants grow naturally in boggy ground, they are some of the most colorful plants for water garden and include many of the irises, lobelias and candelabra primulas.
Whilst the ground immediately surrounding pools found in nature is nearly always wet, this is not always the case in a backyard, particularly in the area surrounding your garden pond. If the perimeter of your pond has a tendency to dry up then a good tip would be to place a polythene liner under the ground at a depth of between 12 to 20 inches. This will hold the moisture (poke holes in the base to avoid water logging).
Failing this you can always use the good old fashioned watering can to wet the area.
Here is a list of some popular moisture loving plants ...
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Whilst the ground immediately surrounding pools found in nature is nearly always wet, this is not always the case in a backyard, particularly in the area surrounding your garden pond. If the perimeter of your pond has a tendency to dry up then a good tip would be to place a polythene liner under the ground at a depth of between 12 to 20 inches. This will hold the moisture (poke holes in the base to avoid water logging).
Failing this you can always use the good old fashioned watering can to wet the area.
Here is a list of some popular moisture loving plants ...
- Aruncus dioicus. goat's beard
- Aruncus diocus Kneiffii
- Astilbe
- Darmera peltata
- F.palmata
- F.rubra Venusta
- F. ulmaria
- Gunnera manicata
- Hemerrocallis
- Hosta
- Ligularia przewalskii
- Musk mallow
- Persicaria amphibia. willow grass
- Persicaria amplexicaulis Atrosanguinea
- Persicaria bistorte Superba
- Primula beesiana
- Primula Bartley strain
- Primula bulleyana
- Drumstick primrose
- Primula denticula Alba
- Primula denticulata Rubra
- Primula floridae. giant cowslip
- Primula japonica
- Primula japonica Millers Crimson
- Primula rosea
- Primula sikkimensis
- Primula vialii
- Primula vulgaris
- Rheum palmatum
- Rheum palmatum Atrosanguineum
- Rodgersia pinnata Elegans
- Schizostylis coccinea
- Schizostlis coccinea Mrs Hegarty
- Scrophularia auriculata Variegata
- Golden rod
- Trollius
- Adiantum pedatum
- Adiantum venustum
- A. scolopendrium Capitatum. crested
- A. scolopendrium Cristatum. spleen wort
- A. scolopendrium Marginatum
- A. scolopendrium Undulatum
- A. scolopendrium Vulgare Hart's tongue fern
- Athyrium filix-femina. the lady fern
- Athyrium filix-femina Cristatum
- Athyrium filix-femina Vernoniae
- Athryrium filix-femina Victoriae
- Dryopteris affinis Cristata. crested buckler fern
- Dryopteris erythrosora. autumn fern
- Dryopteris filix-mass. male fern
- Dryopteris filix-mas. the king
- Dryopteris filix-mas Crispa cristata
- Dryopteris filix-mas Linearis
- Matteuccia struthiopteris. ostrich feather fern
- Sensitive fern
- Royal fern
- Osmunda regalis Cristata
- Polystichum polyblepharum
- Polystichum setiferum. soft shield fern
- Polystichum setiferum Divisilobum
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April 14, 2009
Little Known Facts About Poisonous Trees And Fish Ponds
If you are a pond keeper it is imperative to ensure that certain species of tree that are poisonous are kept away from your fish pond or water garden.
The biggest problem in relation to having any tree species around a fish pond is the shedding of leaves. Even if the leaves are not poisonous the increased levels of organic matter falling into or blowing into the pond is bad news.
The right selection of tree species will certainly provide a welcome respite for your Koi, goldfish, toads and other aquatic life from a hot summer day, as its shadow prevents the water from heating quickly.
When selecting trees to place around a pond avoid the following, or select them at your peril! The laburnum, bay, laurel, yew and lime tree all cause problems. Other tree species, whilst not necessarily poisonous have large root systems that will eventually interfere with your liner pond; the poplar tree varieties, willows and sycamores are examples of trees to avoid.
Trees That Are Suitable For Planting Near Ponds
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The biggest problem in relation to having any tree species around a fish pond is the shedding of leaves. Even if the leaves are not poisonous the increased levels of organic matter falling into or blowing into the pond is bad news.
The right selection of tree species will certainly provide a welcome respite for your Koi, goldfish, toads and other aquatic life from a hot summer day, as its shadow prevents the water from heating quickly.
When selecting trees to place around a pond avoid the following, or select them at your peril! The laburnum, bay, laurel, yew and lime tree all cause problems. Other tree species, whilst not necessarily poisonous have large root systems that will eventually interfere with your liner pond; the poplar tree varieties, willows and sycamores are examples of trees to avoid.
Trees That Are Suitable For Planting Near Ponds
- The Mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia 'Asplenifolia) has elder type umbels of flowers in spring, followed by bright red berries in the fall that are almost eclipsed by the stunning red foliage.
- The Japanese Mountain Ash (Sorbus matsumurana) produces larger orange-red berries.
- The Japanese Crab apple (Malus floribunda) and the scented Malus "Pink Perfection" are good choices.
- Paul's double scarlet (Craetagus oxycantha 'Coccinea Plena) is very popular. The Common Hawthorn (Crataegus prunifolia)is particularly popular for a touch of fall color.
- The Swedish silver birch (Betula dalecarlica) is great if you are looking for light foliage and a bark that gradually goes whiter over time.
If you have an outdoor pergola, situated near to your pond and are looking to add some evergreen variegated climbers then make sure that you avoid deciduous climbers, such as ivy. This plant species is amongst the most poisonous of all climbing tree varieties.
If you are determined to select evergreen deciduous climbers then the Silver Queen (Euonymus fortunei) is a great option as it grows rapidly and hardly flowers at all; occasionally it does produce flowers but you can easily prune it back.
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The Easy Way To Divide Your Hardy Water Lilies
Hardy aquatic water lilies need to be divided every 2 or 3 years, as they out grow their current home. In order to flourish and develop they need more root space. A major bonus however is that you end up with more bunches of hardy water lilies than you started out with!
Spring time is the best time of year to carry out this much needed but often unwelcome chore.
Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
Spring time is the best time of year to carry out this much needed but often unwelcome chore.
- Remove the hardy water lily from the existing plant container and rinse the roots with water to remove excess dirt and debris.
- Cut the older growth from one end of the tuber, and the newer growth from the other. If there are new "eyes" along the tuber you can snip them off and pot them if you wish.
- On small hardy lilies you can safely cut the tuber down to between 2 to 3 inches, on the growing part, with a sharp knife. This can be increased to between 5 to 6 inches on larger plants. Remember to also cut off new buds and older leaves, so that the new root system a chance to develop.
- Gently place the tuber in a planting pot, containing a quality water gardening soil, suitable for use in aquatic garden ponds. It is best to place it against the wall of the pot rather than in the center of the pot. Feed the new tuber by placing a couple of aquatic plant fertilizer tablets, about halfway into the soil. Pack the tuber firmly into place, with some more soil. This will help to keep the tuber in place for the fifth and final stage. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel which will prevent fish from digging at the tuber and will also prevent the soil from floating away. Make sure that the crown of the tuber is not covered.
- Gently lower the pot containing the tuber into your fish pond, up to a depth of no deeper than 1 foot (12 inches). You will probably notice dirt residue mixing with the pond water; this is normal and will soon settle on the pond floor. Leave water lily tuber alone until you see half a dozen or so new leaves. Once this happens you can now place it in deeper water if need be; dependant upon the species and the depth of water preferred.
Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
April 13, 2009
Selecting the Plants For A Japanese Water Garden
Japanese gardens have tradition steeped in history, based on the Buddhist beliefs that a water garden represented paradise on earth. The Japanese water garden designers used a systematic, precise and methodical approach to designing aesthetically pleasing water and water feature combinations, unparalleled by any other society on earth.
The two major seasons, spring and fall are traditionally marked by the choice of plant used. Spring will typically see the use of cherries, azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias. For those gardeners with soil that has a high pH, pruned box and privet are good choices. The fall period is typically depicted by using species with bright colourful leaves such as Acers and Japanese maples.
Aquatic Plants For Japanese Water Garden Themes
The Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis) is one of the best as it readily mops up excess nutrients in the pond water as well as adding much needed oxygen to the water. This species of plant is classified as an oxygenator plant and has leaves that are submersed below water, ensuring that any oxygen produced by photosynthesis, is released into the pond water before escaping into the air.
Other popular aquatic plants that are classified as fast growing species include the Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus), Soft Rush (Juncus effusus), True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris), Flowering Rush (Butomus umbrellatus) and the Water cress.
Plants For Japanese Effects Around Ponds
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Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
The two major seasons, spring and fall are traditionally marked by the choice of plant used. Spring will typically see the use of cherries, azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias. For those gardeners with soil that has a high pH, pruned box and privet are good choices. The fall period is typically depicted by using species with bright colourful leaves such as Acers and Japanese maples.
Aquatic Plants For Japanese Water Garden Themes
The Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis) is one of the best as it readily mops up excess nutrients in the pond water as well as adding much needed oxygen to the water. This species of plant is classified as an oxygenator plant and has leaves that are submersed below water, ensuring that any oxygen produced by photosynthesis, is released into the pond water before escaping into the air.
Other popular aquatic plants that are classified as fast growing species include the Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus), Soft Rush (Juncus effusus), True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris), Flowering Rush (Butomus umbrellatus) and the Water cress.
Plants For Japanese Effects Around Ponds
- Dwarf Azealas
- Dwarf Rhododendrons
- Small Camalias
- Moss
- Japanese Irises
- Hostas, peonies
- Hemerocallis
- Polygonums
- Red Pine (Pinus densiflora
- Black Pine (Pinus thunbergi)
- Acer dissectum species
- Cherry Blossom (Prunus x yeodensis)
- Japanese Apricot (Prunus mume)
- Maples
- Bamboos
- Japanese Crab Apple (Malus x zumi)
- Wedding Cake Tree (Viburnum plicatum Maresii)
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Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
April 12, 2009
Beautiful Aquatic Water Lilies or Lotus Flowers
For all their beauty and splendor water lilies are relatively easy to grow. These aquatic pond plants need deeper pond water than other pond varieties such as, marginals, oxygenators and floating pond plants. They also like still, splash free pond water.
Water lilies are also known as Nymphaea or Lotus flowers and are classified as type 1 aquatic plants. Within this category they are known as hardy water lilies or tropical water lilies. The major difference between the tropical pond lilies and the hardy pond lilies is their ability to withstand cold water conditions.
Pond lilies come in many different shapes, sizes and colors and tend to be vigorous growers. Nymphaea develop strong roots and large leaves that float gracefully on the pond water surface, acting as a temporary home for small frogs. These beautiful leaves are a great hiding place for pond fish from the dreaded herons and king fishers. The aquatic lily plant depending upon species will either be a night time bloomer or a day time bloomer.
The hardy water lily hybrids descend mainly from North West Europe and USA parents root stock, such as the Nymphaea alba odorata and Nymphaea tuberosa. The Yellow and orange colored varieties owe much of their existence to the semi tropical Nymphaea mexicana and other wild species.
Lotus flowers develop tuberous root stocks that grow by about 6 inches or more yearly. These strong roots spread across the pond floor.
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Water lilies are also known as Nymphaea or Lotus flowers and are classified as type 1 aquatic plants. Within this category they are known as hardy water lilies or tropical water lilies. The major difference between the tropical pond lilies and the hardy pond lilies is their ability to withstand cold water conditions.
Pond lilies come in many different shapes, sizes and colors and tend to be vigorous growers. Nymphaea develop strong roots and large leaves that float gracefully on the pond water surface, acting as a temporary home for small frogs. These beautiful leaves are a great hiding place for pond fish from the dreaded herons and king fishers. The aquatic lily plant depending upon species will either be a night time bloomer or a day time bloomer.
The hardy water lily hybrids descend mainly from North West Europe and USA parents root stock, such as the Nymphaea alba odorata and Nymphaea tuberosa. The Yellow and orange colored varieties owe much of their existence to the semi tropical Nymphaea mexicana and other wild species.
Lotus flowers develop tuberous root stocks that grow by about 6 inches or more yearly. These strong roots spread across the pond floor.
Learn how to save money and choose the right pond keeping equipment online, Guaranteed! Make your pond a safe place for your pond fish by learning the secrets of successful garden pond keeping.
Go to http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-plant-lilylist.html to learn everything you need to know NOW!
Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
How To Choose Floating Fish Pond Plants
The majority of floating fish pond plants are usually small to medium sized aquatic plants that move with the wind or current. They do not have strong roots to anchor themselves with but instead have roots that resemble tiny hairs.
Floating pond plants are an excellent way to mop up excess nutrients in the pond water. The plants absorb the nutrients directly from the pond water, helping to keep green pond algae and string algae, such as blanket weed away.
Floating fish pond plants provide a safe hiding place for fish from predatory birds as well as adding a splash of color to any water garden, on a long summers day.
Popular Summer Flowering Floating Aquatic Plants
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Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
Floating pond plants are an excellent way to mop up excess nutrients in the pond water. The plants absorb the nutrients directly from the pond water, helping to keep green pond algae and string algae, such as blanket weed away.
Floating fish pond plants provide a safe hiding place for fish from predatory birds as well as adding a splash of color to any water garden, on a long summers day.
Popular Summer Flowering Floating Aquatic Plants
- The floating moss (Azolla filiculoides) is an attractive plant that changes color midway through the growing season from pale green to red.
- The floating water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes'Major'), resembles the garden variety hyacinth and has pale blue flowers carried on spikes above the spongy, bright green leaf stalks that keep the plant afloat.
- The Frogbit (Hydrocharitaceae) is a small water plant with lily-like leaves about 15 mm across. It is attractive, with white petals.
- The Pistia stratiotes has rosettes of pale green velvety leaves and fine trailing roots. This floating plant is not winter hardy and needs to be over wintered in warmth.
- The Salvinia natans has velvet like leaves, measuring 12 cm long, covered with fine silky hairs.
Popular Winter And Spring Flowering Floating Pond Plants
- The Duck Weed (Lemna minor) has small ovate fronds, that are light green above and dark green beneath. One rootlet hangs down into the water from each frond.
- The Lemna gibba is a larger form of Lemna minor with reddish tinged leaves.
- The Ivy Tusked Duck Weed (Lemna trisulca) has light green transparent fronds that are oval in shape. The young fronds grow at right angles to the old ones.
- The Water Soldier (Stratiotes aloides) is an unusual plant that resembles the top of a pineapple as the long, narrow serrated leaves grow in rosettes
- The Water Chestnut (Trapa natans) has large rosettes of olive-green creeping foliage that have developed from a nut, formed from last season's flower.
- The Bladderwort (Utricularia vulgaris) is a submersed floating insectivorous plant that has yellow flowers showing above the water.
Go to http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-plant-floatingplants.html to learn everything you need to know NOW!
Take advantage of my FREE pond calculators to make conversion between imperial and metric measurements quick, simple and accurate.
April 10, 2009
Commonly Asked Pond Plant FAQ's
What Are The Best Veggie Filter Plants?
The plant that outperforms and outsells all others is the Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis). Not only does this hoover up pollution it oxygenates as well. Basically after that, you are after anything that grows fast and that can easily be cut down to the rootstock and disposed of. The Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus), Soft Rush (Juncus effusus) and True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris) are excellent choices.
What Are The Best Aquatic Plants For Minimal Debris!
The plant that outperforms and outsells all others is the Norfolk reed (Phragmites australis). Not only does this hoover up pollution it oxygenates as well. Basically after that, you are after anything that grows fast and that can easily be cut down to the rootstock and disposed of. The Sweet Galingale (Cyperus longus), Soft Rush (Juncus effusus) and True Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris) are excellent choices.
What Are The Best Aquatic Plants For Minimal Debris!
- Try Busy Lizzies, Begonias, Antirrhinums and Lobelias. If you pick off the dead flowers as they grow, the color will be endless too until the first frosts of autumn.
- Hebes like Hebe rakiensis or Hebe albicans ' Red Edge'. These are quite small, hardly 30cm high but spread over 80cm, but there are a profusion of all sizes and leaf color and shape.
- For a relief from the dome shapes try a spiky leaved Mahonia x Charity or the Osmanthus hetrophyllus 'Variegatus'. For vertical stripes choose a slow growing New Zealand Flax like Phormium 'Rainbow Sunrise'.
Which Aquatic Plants Offer The Best Shade?
Most lilies will fit the bill if you can provide the depth of water, but if the plants are in a shallow trough like marginal area you might try Nymphoides peltata often known a Villarsia or water fringe lily. This is quite vigorous but easy to keep in check, it has small lily like pads with a small funnel shaped yellow flower, quickly covering a fairly large area whilst other plants are finding their feet.
Which Plants Are Suited To A Japanese Garden Theme?
- In spring there is the Cherry blossom; particularly the Yoshino Cherry (Prunus x yeodensis) or the Japanese Apricot (Prunus mume).
- In Autumn there is coloring of the maple leaves. In between we allow ourselves in this country the vibrant colors of dwarf rhododendrons and Azaleas, but the Japanese would be just as content with pruned box, because their priority is structure and form in the garden.
- Pines like the Red Pine (Pinus densiflora), the Black Pine(Pinus thunbergii) are pruned and distorted to create features. Screening plants can also include bamboos and ground cover is usually just moss.
Why not take advantage of my pond calculators to help you convert between metric and imperial measurements quickly and accurately.
The full article can be read at http://www.garden-pond-filters.com/garden-plant-FAQ.html where you will find money saving advice and information to help you choose the right pond keeping equipment the first time around.
Why not take advantage of my pond calculators to help you convert between metric and imperial measurements quickly and accurately.
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